Part One – Returning to the Black Hills of South Dakota
The Black Hills have always held a special place in my heart. Growing up in southwestern Minnesota, my family often spent part of our summer vacation here. At roughly 400 miles from home, Rapid City made for a long day’s drive, but I always knew we were getting close when we reached Wall Drug—my favorite stop along the way.
A lot has changed since those childhood trips, but thankfully much of what makes the Black Hills so special has remained the same. When we arrived at Larsson’s Crooked Creek RV Resort, many of the campsites were occupied by families enjoying their summer vacations. Children were riding bikes through the campground, splashing in the pool, and making the kind of memories that last a lifetime. It was reassuring to see that the Black Hills are still a wonderful destination for families.
During our two-week stay, we revisited many of the places I remembered from childhood, including Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, and Reptile Gardens. While those attractions were every bit as enjoyable as I remembered, the biggest surprises for me were two museums that didn’t exist when I was young: The Mammoth Site in Hot Springs and the Black Hills Institute of Geological Research in Hill City. Both quickly became highlights of our visit.
The Mammoth Site
The Mammoth Site was discovered quite by accident in 1974 during excavation for a housing development. Today, it is an active paleontological dig housed inside a climate-controlled building where visitors can literally walk above the excavation.
Scientists believe that more than 60 male Columbian mammoths became trapped in a prehistoric sinkhole and were unable to escape, leaving behind one of the world’s richest mammoth fossil deposits. Walking through the site while researchers continue their work is a fascinating experience.
Visitors can download a self-guided audio tour that explains the discoveries at each stop throughout the exhibit. The museum does an excellent job of bringing the prehistoric world to life, with plenty of interactive activities for visitors of all ages. Whether you’re interested in geology, paleontology, or simply enjoy learning something new, this is well worth the stop.
The Black Hills Institute
The Black Hills Institute is both a renowned paleontological research institute and an outstanding public museum. Its current museum and gift shop—appropriately named Everything Prehistoric—is located in downtown Hill City inside a beautifully restored 1938 WPA building that the Institute purchased in 1979.
The Institute continues to conduct field work, prepare fossils, perform scientific research, and display specimens collected from around the region.
Unlike the spacious layout at the Mammoth Site, the museum here is delightfully packed with displays. It reminded me of the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, where every corner seems to reveal another fascinating object that you somehow missed on your first pass. The exhibits invite you to slow down and look carefully.
One feature I especially appreciated was the informal atmosphere. Staff members move throughout the museum and are happy to answer questions whenever visitors have them, making the experience feel personal rather than scripted.
The Institute is currently constructing a much larger facility on the edge of Hill City. After seeing the quality of the current museum, I’m already looking forward to returning once the new building opens.
Mount Rushmore
No trip to the Black Hills would be complete without a visit to Mount Rushmore. Although the visitor facilities have changed considerably since Alfred Hitchcock filmed scenes from North by Northwest there in the late 1950s, the monument itself remains as impressive as ever.
It continues to attract visitors from around the world, yet parking is reasonably priced and admission to the memorial itself is free. The exhibits do an excellent job explaining how Gutzon Borglum designed and carved the monument during the first half of the twentieth century.
One detail I had never fully appreciated before is how the surrounding roads were intentionally designed to offer brief, dramatic glimpses of the monument before visitors finally arrive. It builds anticipation in a remarkably effective way.
Custer State Park
Custer State Park remains the crown jewel of South Dakota’s state park system. It is a place that deserves several days of exploration rather than a quick drive-through.
Sylvan Lake
Sylvan Lake is one of the park’s most beautiful locations. Although it is a man-made lake, it blends so naturally into the surrounding granite landscape that it feels timeless.
The one-mile trail around the lake takes about an hour to complete at a leisurely pace and is well worth the walk. Parking is limited, however, so arriving early is highly recommended.
Movie fans may also recognize Sylvan Lake from National Treasure: Book of Secrets.
Needles Highway
If you drive only one scenic road in the Black Hills, make it Needles Highway (South Dakota Highway 87).
Beginning near Sylvan Lake, this spectacular 14-mile drive winds through towering granite spires, narrow tunnels, and sharp hairpin curves. Completed in 1922, it remains one of the most memorable scenic drives in the country.
Take your time, drive slowly, and enjoy every mile. It’s impossible to appreciate the scenery if you’re in a hurry.
Wildlife Loop Road
A park entrance license is required, but the Wildlife Loop is one of the best opportunities anywhere to observe native wildlife.
We saw prairie dog towns, numerous wild burros, and of course the park’s famous bison herd. There is also an excellent Bison Center where visitors can learn more about the history and management of the herd.
One reminder: the burros are friendly—and persistent—but please don’t feed them. And when stopping for photographs, use only the designated pullouts.
Iron Mountain Road
Iron Mountain Road (U.S. Highway 16A) may be the most enjoyable drive in the Black Hills.
For the best experience, drive it from south to north. Over its 17 miles you’ll encounter 314 curves, 15 switchbacks, three wooden “pigtail” bridges, and three narrow granite tunnels. The tunnels were intentionally aligned so that Mount Rushmore appears perfectly framed as you drive through them.
The road was designed for smaller, slower vehicles, and the tunnels are quite narrow.
During our drive, we encountered the driver of a 50-foot-plus Class A motorhome who had just realized there was absolutely no way his coach would fit through the first tunnel. He was attempting what looked like an impossible multi-point turn on a mountain road. We couldn’t help but laugh—and later joked that he might still be trying to get turned around.
Looking Ahead
Our two weeks in the Black Hills reminded me why this region has remained one of my favorite places for more than fifty years. Some attractions brought back cherished childhood memories, while others were entirely new discoveries that I’ll gladly visit again.
In Part Two, I’ll cover several more favorite stops, including Deadwood, Reptile Gardens, and a few other places that make the Black Hills such a remarkable destination.